Vortech Installation Tips

Since I have gone through the process, here are some tips you might find to be helpful if you want to attempt the install yourself.

There are really four parts to the installation of an S-Trim kit for a 5.0 Mustang. The first step is to install the FMU (Fuel Management Unit). Next you install the T-Rex Fuel Pump. You need this even if you have an upgraded intank pump. The T-Rex will boost fuel pressure to the level necessary for safe operation of your supercharger. Third, you install the blower head unit, and plumbing for the blower. Finally, you need to connect the MSD Ignition/Boost Control Module. If you need them, here are the Original installation instructions from Vortech Engineering in PDF format

Here is a list of items you might want to have on hand before you begin (not listed in the installation instructions provided). A new accessory belt, a large assortment of washers to shim the bracket if it doesn't line up exactly, a strong magnet, and a bit of patience. The tolerances for the accessory belt are a little tighter once you have the blower installed. When I did mine, the accessory belt was a little stretched (but not too much that it was slipping or anything), but it was way too big after the blower was installed. We had to shim one of the bracket bolts just slightly to get the accessory tensioner lined up correctly. I don't know if this is common or not, but it was a pain to have to run to the hardware store several times to get the appropriate sized washers for the job. I don't think they tell you to get a magnet, but when you tap into the oil pan, some shavings are going to end up in your pan. Since you don't want to remove the pan, a good strong telescoping magnet will get the majority of the metal out of the pan. In theory, the oil filter should stop anything you leave behind, but I still feel better getting as much of the metal out as possible during the installation. Finally, don't get frustrated...if it doesn't seem right, re-read the instructions and you will figure it out eventually. Plan on a whole weekend for the installation, it took my step-son who is a Ford Mechanic (although they don't work on a lot of blowers at his shop), and a friend who is a regular weekend mechanic. It took them about 14 hours working at a leisurely pace.

Fuel delivery is critical when you are running moderate to high levels of boost with a supercharged car. If you don't get enough, you will get detonation that will lead to blown head gaskets, or piston failure. The purpose of the FMU is to regulate the flow of unused fuel back to the fuel tank. If more pressure is needed at the injectors, it restricts more and more, causing the fuel pressure to rise (the unused fuel has a harder time returning to the fuel tank). You need to make sure that you have the proper diaphragm in your FMU for your injectors. The restriction ratio should be different for higher flow injectors, and conversion kits are available if you have more than the stock 19lb./hr injectors. Installing the FMU is probably the easiest part of the installation, but the diagram provided by Vortech doesn't really make it clear how to hook it to your fuel rail. First of all, the lines from the FMU attach at the bottom of the fuel rail assembly, to the fuel return lines. If you get the job done, and the car runs like crap, try reversing the connections, you probably have them reversed (this happened to us, and it was a pain to figure out what was wrong). Mounting the FMU is simple, just follow the directions from Vortech.

For the T-Rex install it would be a good idea if you had a 1/4 tank or less of gas in your car. You have to drop the fuel tank, and it can get messy if you have a full tank of gas when you start. The reason that you need the T-Rex even if you have a 255lph in tank pump, is that the in tank pumps are built to flow at about 40-45psi. A blown car needs to have pressure in the 70psi range, and the T-Rex is the tool for the job. Again, the directions supplied by Vortech explained the process in good detail, so I don't think that further discussion is necessary.

The head unit and bracket installations are also described in good detail by Vortech.

The last step is to install the MSD Boost Retard Unit. This unit allows you to retard your timing, linearly, based on the amount of boost you are making. The instructions say never to run on the street with less than 1 degree per pound of boost removed, but as long as you don't get any detonation (a pinging sound), you can go lower. Keep in mind however, that if you go too low, you could end up with a blown head gasket. The diagrams and instructions were adequate, but locating a spot for the electronics under the hood was difficult. Finding enough unused surface area on the firewall or fenders proved to be a chore. We finally decided to mount the unit on the firewall, in the center, behind the intake manifold. If you find a better spot without moving your battery to the trunk, more power to you!

Finally, when you tune the car, they say to use spark plugs 1 step colder than stock, and to gap them at .035 instead of the stock .050. You can play with the timing to achieve the optimum results for your car. Most people I know start at 12 to 14 degrees initial, with 1 degree per lb/boost removed, and back it off if they have detonation problems. I would also use 93 octane or higher fuel, again to avoid the dreaded detonation.

E-mail me if you have other questions, or if you think I can help figure something out, I would be more than happy to help if I can.

Craig Kiddoo